Colonial_at_school_006oppenheimI am a parish pastor whose occasional escape from ministry is working with hand tools.  I also enjoy teaching elementary school kids about 18th century woodworking and giving them a chance to see old tools in action.  In this first photo I was portraying a colonial artisan who told students about a frame saw (veneer saw) that was used to cut thin pieces of wood. Being a fan of Adam Cherubini, I had to make a big frame saw when he did a feature on them in Popular Woodworking several years ago. Being a scrounge and frugal, I also hesitate to buy things that I think I can make myself. Making tools is fun and even more so when I can experience the joy of using them. So here is my story, a parishioner helped me to get an antique frame saw while I lived in Upstate New York.  It was constructed with through mortise and tenon joints which were locked with wooden pegs.Jim's workshop stuff 002 I also studied Adam’s article in Popular Woodworking and the famous Roubo engraving showing frame saws. The result is that I built not one but two frame saws. The first frame saw employed blade holders made from cheap spade bits that I annealed and drilled to accept bolts for attaching the blades. Funny how those spade bits can be re-purposed for all sorts of tool applications. Jim's workshop stuff 012Jim's frame saw On the second saw, which was larger, I designed it to have the classic Roubo design which sported saw buckles as blade holders.  I used flat steel from a home improvement store to make homemade buckles to hold the blade. The buckles were made by forging them into a rough oval shape via my hand cranked track forge and then welding them together at overlap points using a Harbor Freight stick welder.Jim's workshop stuff 007 Once the buckles were welded, I cut slots to accept the blade. Securing the blade to the buckles was accomplished here by using steel cross pins that pierced each end of the saw blade/web and those pins were pulled against the buckle ends through the use of wedges at the intersection of the buckle and the arm.   On my first saw, I copied the original which sported a threaded blade holder which tightened against both of the saw arms. After I annealed the spade bits and shortened them, I cut threads on them to accept a washer and nut. For blades or webs, it wasn’t feasible to buy saw blades for my application at that time so I made a couple to my own specification. It wasn’t hard, I simply purchased some spring steel from McMaster Carr and then used triangular files. I found it enjoyable to make my first blade which sported a 24 inch blade and 4 tpi. The second blade wasn’t as much fun, and sported a 36 inch blade with 2 tpi. I made work for myself by breasting the blade to have 1/2 inch of curvature along the tooth line. You can assemble the saw frame in a lot of ways, my preference was to copy the original design I had which is mortise and tenon joints. By putting mortises in the arms and putting tenons on the ends of the stretchers. Tension on the blade automatically translated to compression on the stretchers. You may notice that the mortise and tenon construction is different between the two saws.  It doesn’t matter which way it is done, both methods of frame construction work.  I like the Roubo design, because the saw can be disassembled when necessary as the mortises are not pinned.  No need.  I appreciate the knowledge of our forebears and simply copied that construction technology.  For the Roubo saw, I made the arms of the frame by using 1.25 inch thick cherry and using 1.25 by 1.5 inch square pine for the stretchers. I am very pleased with the two frame saws that I made and I offer this an alternative to purchasing pre-made saw parts. photo 2 (1)   photo 1